Category
page 1Water waves

wind wave
surface waves that occur on the free surface of bodies of water
storm surge
offshore rise of water associated with a low pressure weather system

seiche
A seiche ( ) is a standing wave in an enclosed or partially enclosed body of water. Seiches and seiche-related phenomena have been observed on lakes, reservoirs, swimming pools, bays, harbors, caves, and seas. The key requirement for formation of a seiche is that the body of water be at least partially bounded, allowing the formation of the standing wave.
rogue wave
relatively large and spontaneous ocean surface waves that occur far out at sea
swell
series of waves generated by distant weather systems
breaking wave
wave that becomes unstable as a consequence of excessive steepness
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megatsunami
thumb|right|upright=1.3|Diagram of the 1958 Lituya Bay earthquake and megatsunami|1958 Lituya Bay megatsunami, which proved the existence of megatsunamis
A megatsunami is an extremely large wave created by a substantial and sudden displacement of material into a body of water.
wake
region of recirculating flow immediately behind a moving or stationary solid body
capillary wave
wave traveling along the phase boundary of a fluid, whose dynamics and phase velocity are dominated by the effects of surface tension
meteotsunami
A meteotsunami or meteorological tsunami is a tsunami-like sea wave of meteorological origin. Meteotsunamis are generated when rapid changes in barometric pressure cause the displacement of a body of water. In contrast to impulse-type tsunami sources, a traveling atmospheric disturbance normally interacts with the ocean over a limited period of time (from several minutes to several hours). Tsunamis and meteotsunamis are otherwise similar enough that it can be difficult to distinguish one from the other, as in cases where there is a tsunami wave but there are no records of an earthquake, landsl
internal wave
wave within a fluid medium, rather than on the surface
significant wave height
mean wave height of the highest third of the waves
Ursell number
number used in fluid mechanics
hull speed
speed at which the wavelength of a vessel's bow wave is equal to the waterline length
Wave shoaling
effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height
cross sea
sea state
wave pool
a swimming pool which features artificially generated waves
Keulegan–Carpenter number
dimensionless quantity used in fluid dynamics

clapotis
thumb|right|Incoming wave (red) reflected at the wall produces the outgoing wave (blue), both being overlaid resulting in the clapotis (black).
bow wave
wave that forms at the bow of a ship when it moves through the water
water wave dispersion
water waves of different wavelengths travel at different phase speeds
Douglas Sea Scale
scale to estimate the roughness of the sea for navigation
Draupner wave
rogue wave occurring at the Draupner platform in the North Sea on 1 January 1995
shallow water equations
set of partial differential equations that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a fluid
iribarren number
dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of breaking surface gravity waves on beaches and coastal structures
undertow
subsurface flow of water returning seaward from shore as result of wave action; average under-current which is moving offshore when waves are approaching a shore
Boussinesq approximation
Boussinesq approximation for water waves
Airy wave theory
linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer
wave height
difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighbouring trough
Wave base
maximum depth at which a water wave's passage causes significant water motion
Waves and shallow water
effect of shallow water on a surface gravity wave
surf break
permanent obstruction on the seabed which causes waves to break
Stokes drift
phenomenon
equatorial wave
ocean wave trapped close to the equator
energy cascade
transfer of energy between large and small scales of motion
morison equation
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