Brooch — 1820-1840

Brooch, gold set with diamonds and turquoises. The gems are set in six rosettes each with a diamond in the centre and six turquoises surrounding it, presumably representing forget-me-nots. These rosettes are on an openwork background of oak leaves and acorns, surrounding a circular plaque with a rose and oak leaves in relief. Near the rim, opposite the place where the pin protrudes from the brooch and slightly to the left, is a very small indentation with a mark in the shape of a ram's head. This is the restricted warranty mark for Paris, 1819-38. On the reverse there is a hinged pin and in the centre a locket with a hinged transparent cover (presumably glass) containing a strand of hair. The diamonds have been examined and are Golconda diamonds. They are relatively small at approximately 0.2 carats and are all roughly polished into rose-cut forms. One has a large red inclusion, probably a garnet, visible under magnification. Red inclusions are considered unlucky in traditional Indian gemmology, as noted by G.F.Kunz in 'The Curious Lore of Precious Stones' drawing on Buddhabhatta's treatise on gems. As there is the remnant of what may have been a hoop on the back at the top, it is possible that the object was originally made as a pendant, then converted into a brooch by removing the hoop and affixing a pin.