Ayacucho

Buy

thumb|Ayacucho High quality wool and alpaca tapestries, carpets and embroideries can be found in Barrio Santa Ana. You come there following the Av. Grau. A number of family run shops line the Plaza Santa Ana. In most you can see weaving in process, and purchase tapestries. Santa Ana is the main outlet for many of Ayacucho's weavers. The shops on the Plaza Santa Ana typically feature both the work of the owner's family, as well as tapestries, embroideries and other artesania that they purchase from throughout the area. Most of the families with shops on the Plaza Santa Ana have been in the weaving business for several generations. The Santa Ana tapestries are woven on upright looms. The best are made from handspun yarns, and dyed with natural dyes. Many of the motifs are drawn from archaeological textiles. Ayacucho is also known for its eye-popping three dimensional designs. Many of the shops are set up with a typical handicraft store in the front room. It is often necessary to ask to see the better, more expensive tapestries.

Eat

The Cafe of the University (UNSH(?)) is in the atrium of a lovely colonial building besides the Cathedral at the Plaza de Armas. Magia Negra (Black Magic) - a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas. Serves Pizza, is a bit upscale and comfortable for Americans and a foose ball table Don't miss the best hamburgers ever, served by the street vendors near the plaza at night. Perfect drunken food. You should get the 'triple'. You can get it with a cheap thin hamburger, egg, hotdogs, potato sticks, olive mayonase. It is recommended to get it "sin lechuga" (without lettuce) as lettuce is supposed to particularly harbor micro-organisms. Don't eat too many. Try Puka Picante (potatoes cooked with beetroot and peanuts) and Papa con Quapchi (potatoes with cheese and herbs) in the market or little restaurants.

Drink

Centro Turístico Cultural San Cristobal, a block and a bit from the Plaza de Armas, 28 de Julio 178. The best place for caffeinated beverages (i.e. it actually has cappuccinos, and Americanos). There are a few little cafes here. As the name of the centre suggests, the area is intended for tourists and is a bit pricier than other areas.

Try chicha de manis (peanut-sesame), agua de nipero or manzana (apple) for S/0.5, in the market (right of the big red arc, Jr 28 de Julio)

Sleep

On the road towards the bus station, some places offer nice but simple double rooms for less than S/20, and S/13 for the use of only one bed.

You can stay at the Plaza Hotel for as long as you need.

Hotel La Crillonesa, one block from the main Mercado and just a few from the Plaza de Armas, Nazareno 165. They ask for S/50 for a room with private bathroom and double bed, but may accept lower offers. Rooftop terrace (great view), cafe, cable TV in most rooms, 24-hr hot water, friendly service. You may like being near the market and the bustling pedestrian-only street that goes by it. During Semana santa, the prices increase crazily. You can contact Leira Figuero 990454539, at the cross between Jr Callao and Venezuela. They rent a mattress on the floor for S/10 (6 can enter), in a small room with WC, cold shower, and your own key.

Go next

Huari/Wari is the oldest urban center in the Andes You can visit the ruins and the museum (S/2) daily. Take a colectivo in Av. Cáceres to come there (45 min, S/2). On the way back, be sure to get a colectivo before 17:00, otherwise it may become difficult. La Quinua is a nice village with old buildings. Nearby, you can visit the Pampa de Quinua with its 44-m high obelisk, remembering to the famous battle of Ayacucho in the Peruvian war of independence. The colectivos to Huari proceed to La Quinua. Go to Vilcashuaman (3-4 hr, S/15). The way is really nice. The city is calm, some Inca ruins, very few tourists. Try the chicken of Polleria El Sol. Walk to a Laguna, going up the street Camino Real (30 min). Andahuaylas by combis (6 hr, S/25) Huancayo with buses Molina at the terminal Wari (far from the center), go at 20:30 (all night, S/30). Expreso Los Chankas, Pje Cáceres 150. Perhaps the only place to offer direct service to Cusco. S/55 each for a 22-hour ride on a semi-cama bus. Buses at 06:30 and 19:00.