Batticaloa

Understand

Batticaloa is the capital of the district of the same name. The town itself began on Puliyanthivu, an island in the lagoon, which is now linked to the mainland by three road bridges. This island contains the old town and many of the historical attractions. Today, Batticaloa is a regional trading hub, especially for local crops of rice and coconuts. This strategically-located town has been fought over many times, and was first captured the Portuguese in 1622. The Dutch took it in 1638, and were ousted by the British in 1796. The LTTE (Tamil separatists) controlled the area during the 1980s until it was retaken in 1991 by government troops. The area suffered immensely from the December 2004 tsunami.

The lagoon is famous for its "singing fish", thought thought to be a type of fish releases air from a swim-bladder, which creates different "songs". This phenomenon has been documented since the colonial era but the details remain hazy. Research into the phenomenon was suspended during the civil war, at first because the government was no longer in control of the area, and later when the lagoon was made off-limits after a nightly curfew. If you go on a tour of the lagoon late at night, the boatman will cut the motor and hand you an oar. You dip the oar in the water, press your ear to the handle end, and listen. Traditionally, local fishermen have navigated the lagoon at night by the different sounds they hear in the water.

Hinduism is the major religion of Batticaloa. Batticaloa h…

Get around

The old town is very compact, so is easily walkable. Tuk-tuks are available, but agree on a price before departing. A rule of thumb is Rs. 100 per kilometre. Also, public Sri Lankan Transport Board buses and private bus/van service are available.

See

thumbnail|Batticaloa Fort seen from Northeast. thumb|right|Batticaloa Gate

Do

Hotels and travel agents can organise singing fish tours. Around Rs. 1500 pp, minimum 2, maximum 8 per boat. After 22:00, duration around 1 hour. The singing fish are best heard when skies are clear, although hearing them cannot be guaranteed. Swimming, especially at Pasikudah beach, which has calm water. Boat travel from Batticaloa lighthouse to Batticaloa Fort (about 3 km) is recommended. Bird watching with local guide. Seasonal & migrating birds visit the area. Kudumbimalai (literally "Hair-knot-rock") is a recommended place for bird watching. Watch the traditional folk dance kuthu being performed during Hindu festivals or other special events.