Bougainville

Understand

Bougainville is very off the beaten track and far from easy to get to. It is an island with vast untapped potential for tourism with magnificently rugged, jungled terrain and amazing coral reefs offshore. After suffering a brutal civil war from 1988 to 1997 against the rest of PNG and Australia, the island is doing its best to return to some sort of normality, and tourism is seen as a key part of the future. Following overwhelming support in a 2019 referendum it's scheduled to become an independent country by the end of 2027.

Buy

If you are looking for an authentic local item, Bougainville is known for the high quality of its basket-ware, perhaps the best in all of Papua New Guinea. The small town of Wakunai on the east coast is noted as a good place to purchase basket-ware and other local artifacts. A few handicrafts are available at the Buka Market.

There is a branch of the Bank of the South Pacific, tel: +675 973 9752, in Buka town. It has two ATMs and offers foreign exchange facilities; there are a few additional ATMs elsewhere in town.

Eat

Buka has a lot of options during the day, from chicken and chips to fish-on-a-stick from the markets, which you can eat by the beach watching the hordes of small boats being deftly manoeuvred by the captains. At night there is a limited number of restaurants by the water. None are above average and shortages are common. Options outside of Buka are largely limited to local roadside food or preferably homemade food.

Most formal accommodation options will provide full board with three meals a day if you request it.

The local staples are fish (near the coast) and chicken, with pigs usually being reserved for special feasts. Cassava, tapioca, yams, and "choko" (chayote), are the most common carbohydrates grown locally. Fresh fruit is as excellent as you would expect.

One of the most traditional dishes is called "tama tama", made by pounding cassava, tapioca, or banana, until it becomes a starchy dough. It is almost exactly like African "fufu", and the Bougainvilleans are aware of the connection.

Drink

"Homebrew" is a locally produced alcohol, sometimes as strong as 90° proof.

Respect

Most people in Bougainville are pro-independence, and so talking about independence may be a very sensitive subject. This includes the nine-year war whose ongoing tensions persist. This essentially means that it's best to avoid talking about the Australian, PNG and Indonesian history of the island.

Stay safe

In some central and southern areas of the main island, to this date there are virtually no foreigners. These areas should not be visited by independent travellers without seeking local advice. The safest method, given the values of the culture, is to be accompanied by a local. In their culture, it is of the utmost importance to ensure the safety of a friend or guest. Travel to the no-go zone and Panguna mine can be made, but is only possible through a well-connected local. There are still guns in the hands of ex-combatants (unofficial reservist force), and while they are no longer carried out in the open, never forget that a local may have quick access to a gun. You should never get in a heated argument with a local as it may quickly attract a crowd and will put your local contact in an awkward position, and without a local contact, the situation could easily escalate out of control. Do not be alarmed at the sight of bush knives or large machetes; it is very normal for locals to carry them.

The north of the main island and the whole of Buka are quite safe for independent travel.

Always respect the no-go zone barriers around Morgan's Junction and Panguna.

This is a tropical island and malaria is endemic. Check with your local health care providers well in advance of departure at for the most appropriate preventative medication.

Be sure to treat any open scratches with topical antibiotics. Preferably you, or someone in your party, will have first aid knowledge. Feel safe in…