Dharamshala

Understand

The Tibetan Buddhist roots of Dharamsala stretch back to the 8th century, although most of the local population long since reverted to (and remains) Hindu. "Dharamsala" literally means an "inn attached to a temple", and it was so until the district headquarters in Kangra became too crowded and the British moved 2 of their regiments in the late 1840s to what is now Dharamsala. Over the years, this grew to be district headquarters of Kangra, and the location is now known as the Police Lines.

Dharamsala was mooted to be the summer capital of India. But this was not to be, as much of the town was destroyed in the 7.8 magnitude earthquake of 4 April 1905. The disaster killed over 10,000 people in this sparsely populated area.

After falling into obscurity in the early days of Indian independence, Dharamsala regained some social standing in 1959 with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile. It is a very popular hang-out for foreigners and students of Buddhism. Indeed, it is now perhaps a little too popular and many would say the town, and especially McLeod Ganj, is little more than a backpacker ghetto. Don't come here expecting calm and tranquillity.

Get around

thumb|370px|Map of McLeod Ganj

See

thumb|201x201px|Giant prayer wheel and thangka of Arya Sitatapatra, a form of Tara, at Tsuglagkhang thumb|View of Dhauladhar Range from HPCA Stadium Dharamshala thumb|Dhauladhar Range from Naddi viewpoint thumb|St John Cathedral in the Wilderness

Buy

Many Tibetan things can be bought in Dharamsala such as jewellery and trinkets, woollen shawls, prayer flags, prayer wheels, carpets, thangka and mandala paintings.

Drink

Refill your waterbottle with filtered-water at one of the many water-filtering stations: LHA at Temple Rd, Environmental Education Centre at Bhasgu Rd and Dogga-Centre at Jogiwara Rd. Some restaurants, including Nick's and Green Hotel also offer filtered water refills for a charge (₹5, but Green Hotel asks for ₹10).

Sleep

McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation, but its main streets (esp. Bhagsu Rd) suffer from the usual Indian curse of beeping cars, motorbikes and rickshaws. It is easy to find something suitable—just walk around and ask for a good price. Always let you show at least two different rooms before you decide. Two hostels worth mentioning in McLeod Ganj are and —walk-ins seem to be advantageous.

A higher concentration of hostels (and backpackers) can be found in Bhagsu and Haini, besides the usual homestays, hotel, etc.. Hostels worth mentioning here are and —walk-ins seem to be advantageous.

For long-term stays, head down the Yongling stairs on Jogiwara Road; there are about a dozen cheap good places, with great views.

Stay safe

The place is safe, though it is advisable to take precautions. Stay vigilant at all times and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM.

Go next

Amritsar – The holy Sikh city of and its Golden Temple is a 6-hr bus journey away. Buses leave at 5AM from the lower bus station, or go through Pathankot first with many connections per day, and a train from there. Bir – A village with a Tibetan and Indian population, known for its Buddhist monasteries and paragliding centre, developing as an adventure hub with the second highest paragliding spot of the world, Bir-Billing. Dalhousie – A small hill station close to Pathankot. Manali – The next hub for journeys deeper into the mountains. Palampur – A beautiful valley famous for its tea gardens, agricultural university, temples. Sidhbari – Outside lower Dharamshala is an ideal getaway from the tourist traffic and to experience life in a typical farming village in the valley.

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