Herceg Novi

Understand

thumb|Church Sv. Spas in Topla Herceg Novi is a very popular destination for tourists from the neighbouring Serbia, and, to a lesser extent from Russia. In spite of this tourist boom, the city has managed to some extent to keep the traditional slow Montenegrin lifestyle. The locals are very welcoming and you are never annoyed by street vendors.

A sizeable Bosnian (Serb) refugee population flooded into Herceg Novi during the war years. Many of the camps are still around although they have been turned into more permanent (and quite nice) settlements. You can still see them on the bus as you leave the city. Also if you go for a wander up into the hills you will come into whole new areas of construction resulting from a property boom.

Get in

Bus is the only transport in/out of Herceg Novi, and the is busy all day long with buses heading (mostly) down the Adriatic coast. There is a regular bus service to Herceg Novi (and further to other Montenegrin cities) from the main bus station in Dubrovnik, which runs several times a day, operated by Flixbus. It costs €11 (2017) and takes about 90 minutes including border formalities. There are also regular buses to Kotor, Budva, Bar and Podgorica. Some buses go as far as to Beograd. There are also a couple of buses a day going to Trebinje in Bosnia under an hour.

If Herceg Novi is your main destination, a pleasant alternative to bus travel is hiring a Croat cab from Dubrovnik airport (Cilipi) for about €50; this trip takes about 40 minutes, including border crossings.

There is no rail or ferry access into the town.

Get around

Most of the attractions are in the historic town (stari grad) which can be traversed on foot in under 10 minutes. Some of the museums are a bit further out but easily at a walking distance.

There are regular public transport buses between Igalo and Kamenari, run by Blue Line. Timetables vary seasonally. The nicest by far is to walk on the seafront (where the railway used to go) and scale the stairs where you need to.

Along the waterfront runs a 7-km-long promenade, pedestrianised, with over 100 souvenir shops and restaurants dotted alongside. It runs from near Lazure Beach to the east, to to the west, just south of Igalo.

See

The main attraction of Herceg Novi is the old town (stari grad) that is remarkably well preserved. Built as an outpost city on the flank of a fairly steep hill, there are wandering stairs leading all the way down to the sea. The two defensive structures of the old town, Forte Mare at the waterfront and Kanli Kula on the hill, are both worth visiting, and having a entrance ticket for one entitles you to a 50% discount to the other.

Visits to most attractions will be relatively short, for example, looking around in Forte Mare or the city museum will take 30 minutes at most, including snapping a few pictures of the impressive views. A day or two offer plenty of time to experience this city, making it a worthwhile stop between Dubrovnik and Perast. thumb|Savina Monastery

Do

thumb|A beach in Herceg Novi Swimming - The city has some great pebble and many concrete beaches, although most of them are quite crowded during high season (see photo). There is a path that leads along the beach part of the city for about 5 km. Follow it until you find a place that is suitable for you. Many small privately owned beaches have loungers, small boats, and other gear for hire. Mud therapy - At the western end of the promenade is a small spa town of Igalo, renowned across Europe for healing properties of its muddy, mildly radioactive sand. A health and hospital centre complex offers mud therapy combined with other treatments, but you can do it yourself by following the locals and wading through the sand. Apply the muddy sand all over your body, or on affected parts, and combine with gentle exercise and sunbathing for best effects. This is believed to be beneficial for rheumatic complaints, skin disorders, and gynecological problems. People watching - Along the promenade, the main square in the Old Town, and almost everywhere else around town, there are about hundred small cafes with tables conveniently positioned for this popular local pastime. All serve good coffee (Italian style) and many also offer a selection of freshly made and delicious cakes and ice creams. Boat trips to the famous Blue Cave (Plava špilja). The tour usually includes swimming and snorkeling inside the cave, a visit to Mamula Island, and a break at Žanjic beach. Hiking - Going from the bus s…

Buy

Italian-made clothes in Old Town and Igalo boutiques are reasonably priced up-to-minute fashions. Not great for local arts and crafts, which are available in Kotor and Budva. Go to local market just off the main square in the Old Town on Saturday morning to buy fresh fruit (sweet and cheap), olive oil, sheep and goats cheese, dried figs, locally made wine; this market sells seasonal and locally produced goods, so what you find depends on the time of your visit.

Eat

thumb|The Hotel Aurora, which is housed in the former Herceg Novi Train Station Go to small eateries around the promenade for fresh local food, grilled seafood and meat dishes, and international cuisine. Count approximately €10-12 for the main dish in a typical restaurant (grilled high-quality fish is more expensive). Almost all cafes serve pizza which is usually well-made. Follow the locals; Montenegrins are usually more picky than foreign tourists when it comes to eating out.

The Petica in the centre of the Old Town is a great place to sit, drink an espresso, or have some fairly priced pasta/pizza (€4-7). The service is very friendly and the food is delicious.

The Tri Lipe restaurant is next to the Sea Fort (Forte Mare), 20m from the beach. You eat in an open-air terrasse under three old lindens, and the service is quick and friendly. If you are on a budget, get a takeaway from the window on the side and enjoy it on a bench next to the sea.

Drink

Herceg Novi is hot in summer, and it usually stays warm late into the evenings, so cold drinks are best sellers. Iced coffee is served in tall glasses with dollops of ice cream and "slag" (fatty whipped cream) and qualifies as a full meal. Local beer made in Niksić is good; also try "spritzer" which is a refreshing mix of chilled white wine and carbonated mineral water.

Sleep

Accommodation is plentiful: Look for signs that say 'soba.' You should be able to get a room for €10 per person during the summer months.

Go next

Half-day or full-day boat excursions along the Kotor Bay or to a specific destination (Kotor, Perast, Ostrog monastery) leave from different points on the beach.