Phnôm Pênh

Understand

Phnom Penh was largely depopulated during the Khmer Rouge regime, with most of its population deported to camps in the countryside. It was liberated from the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, and has long remained a bit rough. Things have improved; however, some roads remain shabby, traffic is persistently chaotic, and electricity is occasionally strained (never mind your precious internet). But on the whole, the city is reasonably modern. thumb|The Silver Pagoda, in the grounds of the Royal Palace. The city has gained high-rise buildings and traffic lights. The beauty that made it a "Paris of the East" before 1970 is unfortunately well hidden, though a few French colonial buildings remain. The wide boulevards and promenades envisaged by the French have become parking spaces and market stalls: pedestrians are not in favour. Over the last decade, the skyline has changed enough to be unrecognizable. Numerous new high rises have sprouted throughout the building, funded largely by Chinese capital.

The most pleasant strolling is to be done along the park-like riverfront, which hosts cafés and restaurants aplenty. Standard tourist sights are few, which makes the city a place to watch the street life and absorb the local colour. Phnom Penh is a worthwhile destination for those who enjoy an "edgy" experience and can brave the downsides of reckless driving, noise, dust, and perennial theft.

Touts and beggars abound in tourist areas. A firm but polite refusal should work. Older…

Get around

Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape. Some smaller streets and footpaths are rutted and potholed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motorbikes, sleeping people, and building materials. Street signage is clear and Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating is not too difficult.

See

France's Cambodian colony was acquired late and largely neglected. Historic colonial architecture was limited to start with and has largely decayed. The Grand Post Office Building, Central Market and Raffles Le Royal Hotel are notable exceptions. Generally, any building in good condition, old or new, will be behind a big wall and security guards. There are also sites related to the brutal Khmer Rouge regime, three of which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2025: the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum housed in the former prison S-21, the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek, as well as the former M-13 prison west of Phnom Penh.

thumb|Royal Palace thumb|Sisowath Quay as seen from FCC thumb|Tuol Sleng Prison