Sana

Understand

One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world (others being Jericho, Damascus and Aleppo), Sana'a is traditionally said to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah. As a result, the city has the unlikely nickname of "Sam City".

Sana'a will start surprising you the moment you arrive at the airport. All the policemen and the civilians wear jambiya, the unique Yemeni dagger. Even small children wear little daggers. Many people have swollen cheeks because of chewing qat leaves. Outside the airport, all buildings look the same because of uniformly painted windows and walls.

Get around

Sana'a is a big city which, in common with many other developing-world capitals, is spreading in all directions at once. Visitors will almost certainly have to use taxis or hired cars to get around, as the street maps often leave much to be desired.

There are many "Dabaabs" or mini vans that go on different routes around the city. They serve as public buses and are quite cheap. They have fixed routes and cost 15-30 riyals/ride.

Taxis to the airport from the centre should cost 1000 rials (August 2008). Be prepared to bargain with your taxi driver for a reasonable fare. Usually fares can be reduced by a third of the price after a bit of haggling.

Cars are used a lot but they are mostly 4x4s or pick up trucks. Drivers tend to use the horn excessively which is normal in this beautiful congested city.

See

thumb|right|250px|Bab al-Yemen

The Old City of Sana'a is World Heritage Listed and makes a great place to see the uniquely Yemeni style of architecture - multiple-storey tower houses with the distinctive qamariya windows. Within the Old City is the Souk al-Milh, arguably the best souk (marketplace) in the Arabian Peninsula.

Do

Sana'a is a great place for people-watching and culture observing. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life, coupled with the almost total lack of industrialisation seen in nearby countries, means that it's quite possible to sit in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.

If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen (and are prepared to risk your health): participate in a qat session. Qat (khat) is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen. They spend their afternoons hanging out, chewing the leaf, and conversing. A bag will cost no more than 5 US dollars, and you can get "inferior" product for less. Side effects are lack of appetite and insomnia. Qat is considered by many as the prime cause of Yemen ranking as the poorest country in the Middle East. Note that Qat is a controlled substance in many other countries, and those trying to bring it into such countries risk arrest.

Buy

Almost everywhere you look, you will have the chance to buy the curved dagger (jambiya) worn by local men. This purchase can be simply of the dagger and its accompanying sheath, however handmade belts and silver pouches are also for sale, with many tourists opting to purchase each item separately. When purchasing a jambiya, remember first and foremost that it counts as a weapon for customs purposes, even though it is not used as one anymore. Secondly, the sheath is predominantly leather with either a base metal or (in more expensive models) silver decoration. Traditionally, handles were made of animal horn or ivory. It is doubtful that the handles sold today as being made from either of these products are genuine, and so a wooden or amber handle may be a better option. If a real jambiya costs too much, there are also pendants and brooches commonly available in the shape of the knife and its sheath.

Necklaces and jewellery are also common souvenirs, and many of these will be made of the semi-precious stones the souvenir sellers claim. Nevertheless, a healthy grain of salt should be added to any belief that one is actually purchasing a necklace of lapis lazuli or anything like that.

Bargaining is expected and worthwhile. If you are with local guides, a common approach is to have them ask for the "Yemeni price", however any bargaining on the part of the tourist will result in discounts. Bear in mind that what may seem an absurdly cheap price for an item in Western terms will s…

Eat

Visitors should be careful when eating from street stands as the same warning which applies to tap water applies to poorly-prepared food. Salta is a popular Yemeni lunch dish that is served very hot.

Drink

As in the rest of the country, the tap water should be avoided at all costs. Bottled water, both chilled and at room temperature, is readily available and very cheap - as is the normal range of fruit juices and soft drinks.

Sleep

Good option to stay is new part of Sana'a. It's walking distance to Old part of town but hotels offer better value to money. Around Tahrir area there are about 10 hotels to choose, ranging from five star Taj Sheba hotel to no-star hotels. recommended are 2 Wadi Hadramout hotels. More expensive Wadi Hadramout hotel is cross the main road from Tahrir Square, other more economical is near Taj Sheba hotel at Ali Abdulmogny Street. There double room with bathroom and TV costs about 2000 rials. Staff are very helpful and friendly and some speak English.

Stay safe

See the warning on the Yemen article for information on the security situation.

Visitors should take care particularly in the Old City as the streets are poorly signposted and the unwary may find themselves in someone's courtyard.

Maps of Yemen tend to have details of the city, but (as with road maps in the country) they are unreliable. If at all possible, visitors should use a local guide.

Gun carrying is normal as many men hold or have a gun for traditional reasons. One should not be alarmed at the sight of a gun, even a Kalashnikov.

Go next

The awe-inspiring Dar Al-Hajr (often known as the Rock Palace) is located in Wadi Dahr roughly 30 minutes from the city centre and makes a very easy afternoon's excursion. You will be able to take one of the local taxis. A full day excursion can take you to Thulla, Kawkaban and Shibam (not the Hadramout version but the Amran version) which is approximately 55 km from the outskirts of Sana'a. It is possible to stay overnight in Kawkaban, although there are only two hotels (more like full-board guest-houses as there are no restaurants). Accommodation and meals cost about €7.