Aksaray

Understand

Cappadocia was a Persian kingdom from 331 BC to 17 AD and its last independent ruler Archelaus thought it would be neat if this town was named Archelaïs. He was unpopular with his subjects and ran out of money - the Romans invited him to Rome to discuss ways they could help, and when they'd done discussing, Archelaus was mysteriously dead. So the Romans took over the territory and renamed the town Colonia, just so everyone understood their status.

The town was on the Silk Road, the trading highway to Konya from the east of the country, and away over the far mountains from Persia. It came under the rule of the Seljuks from the 11th century, who adorned it with their distinctive architecture, building stout caravanserai to protect the travelling traders. The next brief dynasty was the Karamanids, then the Ottomans won it in 1470. By then the town had its present name of Aksaray meaning "white palace", of which no trace remains. Many residents relocated to Constantinople at that time, so there's a neighbourhood of Aksaray in present-day Istanbul.

Later trade was of salt (essential in the days before refrigeration) harvested from the great salt lake to the north. Aksaray today is an industrial town that you pass through on the road to Cappadocia but don't linger.

Get around

It would make sense to rent a car (check Google Maps and ratings), but as soon as you are out of the city hitchhiking is also possible. So, it can be a good idea to rely on buses and your thumb if you are not in too much of a hurry.

See

Governor's Office and other handsome early Republican buildings are in the square 200 m southwest of Grand Mosque. The street on the square's north flank is optimistically called Turizm Cd. thumb | 300px | Courtyard of Sultan Han Kılıçaslan Hamams are 12th century bath houses on the riverbank opposite Red Minaret Mosque. In modern times they became garbage dumps but are under restoration.

Do

thumb | 300px | Ihlara Valley, the canyon of Melendiz River Ihlara valley – For hiking and rock-climbing near Güzelyurt.

Buy

Migros is the main supermarket, on Atatürk Blv opposite Eski Garaj. It's open daily 09:00-22:00. Nora City is a shopping mall 200 m northeast of Migros on Atatürk Blv. Lots of small neighbourhood stores, A101 is the main chain.

Eat

Riverside along Ebulfeyz Elçibey Cd is the main eating strip. Choices include Sofra, Etci, Künefeland, Has Döner, Şehzade, Çiğerci Bahattin, Elçibey, Domino's Pizza, Omur Baba and Kardeşler. Several more in the park upriver.

Drink

Mert Birahanesi is at Kalealtı Cd 58. Don't look for head-banging music in Teknobar just south, it's a construction company. Many cafes and restaurants serve beer.

Sleep

thumb | 300px | Sleep? Mount Hasan is dormant not extinct Tezcan Otel is a basic but acceptable place off Vehbiby Cd, a block east of Zinciriye Madrasa.

Connect

Aksaray and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Nov 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

Güzelyurt and Ihlara valley – 30 km southeast are the closest parts of strange Cappadocia scenery, a fantastic landscape of volcanic tufa and ancient religious sites. Nevşehir, Göreme and Avanos – Cappadocia's main tourist bases. Kayseri – Further east has an ancient citadel and old town. Konya – Was the home of the Mevlani, the Sufi "whirling dervishes". Ankara – North, is a sprawling modern city but with many sights of interest in its historic centre.