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Eat

thumb|Tepsi Baytinijan

Iraqi cuisine is centred on grilled meats, slow-cooked stews, rice, and fresh bread. Meals are social events — portions are generous, tea follows every dish, and refusing food is considered impolite. Street food is abundant and inexpensive throughout the country, while sit-down restaurants range from simple local grills to upmarket riverside establishments in Baghdad.

Masgouf is considered the national dish of Iraq. It is an open-cut carp (a freshwater fish) roasted for hours after being marinated with olive oil, salt, curcuma and tamarind while keeping the skin on. Traditional garnishes include lime, chopped onions, and tomatoes. It is often served with flatbread. The best masgouf is found along the Tigris in Baghdad, particularly on Abu Nawas Street, where restaurants prepare the fish over open wood fires.

Tepsi Baytinijan is another very popular dish: a baked casserole typically consisting of meatballs, aubergine, tomatoes, garlic, onions, and potatoes.

Quzi (or ghoozi) is slow-roasted lamb served over fragrant rice with almonds and raisins. It is the centrepiece of celebrations, weddings, and large family gatherings throughout Iraq.

Kubba (كبة) are fried or boiled bulgur wheat shells stuffed with spiced minced meat. Varieties differ by region — Mosul is known for its kubba mosuliya, while Baghdad's version is typically deep-fried and served with lime.

Tashreeb is a hearty stew poured over torn pieces of flatbread, allowing the bread to soak up…

Drink

The sale and importation of alcohol is prohibited in Iraq with a law passed in 2016 by the Iraqi parliament.

Sleep

Sleep in the hot summer months can be difficult. Sleeping outside and near flowing water is the most comfortable setting one can find outside of air conditioning.

In Iraqi Kurdistan, there are plenty of hotels and although they are hard to find in any travel guide, anyone on the street will direct you to a nearby place. There's no shortage in Zakho, Dohuk or Erbil. Rates run about USD15–25 per night for a single room with bathroom.

Hotels in Baghdad can be found on several popular booking sites. For a single room with a private bathroom, rates start at around 50 USD per night in winter and 70 USD per night in summer. Baghdad also boasts some more luxurious options like the five star Babylon Rotana hotel which costs 240-280 USD per night, depending on the season, for a single room.

Non-married couples should check the hotel's policy on sharing rooms prior to booking. Due to local cultural norms, some hotels may ask for proof of marriage before allowing couples to share a room.

Stay safe

Although things are gradually getting better, the political and security situation remain very unstable. If you decide to go, strongly consider hiring a local guide. Many highways have road blocks set up by not only the Iraqi government, but also by various local militias, who will inspect your documents and question your purpose of visit.

Stay healthy

It is not safe for short term visitors to drink the water anywhere in Iraq. It is best to always drink bottled water. It will usually be sold at vendors and large stores, and will be easy to find. Most Iraqi water companies pump their water directly from the Tigris or Euphrates rivers, treat it with ozone, and then filter it into bottles. Those with sensitive systems should not drink it. Many street vendors will offer drinks such as water with a lemon twist, which should be presumed unsafe for foreign visitors.

Those with experience in Iraq should use their discretion and past experience when purchasing drinks.

Drinking the local tea (chai) can be safe for some people since it is brought to a boil before serving, but when in doubt, insist that bottled water be used. Many kinds of water-borne disease, pollution, and infectious agents are not affected by boiling of water, and are still present in the water after boiling.

As a walk past an Iraqi butcher shop will demonstrate, food preparation standards are not the same as in Western countries, and consumption of local food can make a visitor ill. Try to bring your own. As tap water is generally not potable, you should especially avoid uncooked foods.

Should you find your body in the uncomfortable position of rejecting food and water due to something you shouldn't have drunk, immediately find someone who speaks Arabic and send them to a local pharmacist and request a product known locally as "InterStop" (similar to co-phenotr…

Respect

The Iraqis in general are humble, hospitable and down-to earth.