Ceraş

Understand

thumb|right|150px|Nymphaeum

48 km (30 miles) north of the capital Amman, Jerash is known for the ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa, also referred to as Antioch on the Golden River. It is sometimes misleadingly referred to as the "Pompeii of the Middle East", referring to its size, extent of excavation and level of preservation (though Jerash was never buried by a volcano).

Jerash became an urban center during the 3rd century BC and a member of the federation of Greek cities known as the Decapolis ("ten cities" in Greek). Jerash prospered during the 1st century BC as a result of its position on the incense and spice trade route from the Arabian Peninsula to Syria and the Mediterranean region. Jerash was a favorite city of the Roman emperor, Hadrian, and reached its zenith in AD 130, flourishing economically and socially. The city began to decline in the 3rd century, later becoming a Christian city under the rule of the Byzantine empire. The Muslims took over in AD 635, but the final blow to the city was dealt by Baldwin II of Jerusalem in AD 1112 during the Crusades.

Modern Jerash sprawls to the east of the ruins, sharing the same city wall but little else. Thankfully, the ruins have been carefully preserved and spared from encroachment.

Get around

Walking is the only choice you have – about 3 km all together. Get in at the south end of the archaeological site south of the Hippodrome. The North Gate is closed.

See

thumb|right|150px|Oval Plaza thumb|right|150px|Temple of Artemis thumb|South Theatre

Signs describing the history of each set of ruins have been introduced, and you can pick up a map to orient yourself at the Visitor Centre, at the South Gate of the archaeological park. You can exit at the North Gate, which is across from the bus station.

The ruins are extensive compared to many other sites, but it's not hard to see everything in a couple of hours. It is unlikely that visitors will miss anything important.

Beware of the many touts inside the area, who will try to sell you "original" coins, artifacts and antiques, after they helped you taking your picture. If they stand in the way of your picture in front of the many sights, especially the Nymphaeum and the Temple of Artemis, firmly ask them to step aside. If they do not cooperate, tell them you will complain with the visitor center.

If you go first thing in the morning, you can avoid most of the tour groups arriving from Amman.

Do

The Jordan Trail. The Jordan Trail spans the entire length of Jordan, stretching from Umm Qais in the north to Aqaba in the south, covering over 650 kilometers and passing through 52 villages and towns. This extensive hiking route offers a captivating 40-day journey through the diverse landscapes of Jordan.

Buy

Just outside of the archaeological park's South Gate is a small souq — an outdoor bazaar, of sorts — that provides a well-rounded offering of Jordanian souvenirs and handicrafts. Many of the shop keepers are amiable and are willing to bargain over prices. Local children and teens will try to sell you Roman coins and other small artefacts found on the site. Please refrain from buying from them, as this practice is not legal.

Eat

Along the road into Jerash there are several other restaurants from which to choose.

Sleep

Accommodation in Jerash is sparse.

Go next

The is outside the northern end of the Jerash archaeological side. However, buses also leave from the just south of the Hippodrome to Amman and Ajlun Castle.

Ajlun & Ajlun Castle – The castle is an interesting maze of passages and levels, and offers a wonderful view of the surrounding area, northwestern Jordan, and off into Galilee. This Islamic fortress is a mere 16 km east from Jerash. The castle is located on the top of a mountain just outside the small city of Ajlun. If you start your day early enough, you can take the bus from Amman to Ajlun and see the castle. Afterwards take a bus from 'Ajloun to Jerash, while still having plenty of time to spend at Jerash. Ajlun and Jerash make a good combination day; however, most buses travel from Ajlun to Jerash and not the other direction. Therefore, it is better to travel from Amman to Aljun Castle, then to Jerash, then back to Amman. Once in Aljun, take a taxi to Aljun Castle and arrange for the taxi to wait for you or to transport you back to the Aljun bus station. In the afternoon the buses become infrequent and you run the risk of being left in one of the cities if you do not plan accordingly, especially during Ramadan. If this occurs, stand around across from the police station and you can probably bargain with a private driver to take you back to Amman. Irbid – The main industrial and administrative centre in the north of the kingdom, and a staging point for exploration further afield to Gadara (Umm Qais),…