Kowloon

Understand

"Kowloon" means "nine dragons" in Cantonese. The mountains that overlook Kowloon account for eight of Kowloon's nine dragons while, as the story goes, the ninth dragon refers to the emperor who counted them. The most famous of these mountains is Lion Rock, which when seen from the right angle, really does deserve its name.

"Kowloon side", as it is often known, managed to escape some of the British colonial influences that characterise the "Hong Kong Island" side. While prices on Kowloon side tend to be lower, it is also less tourist-friendly and English proficiency is not as strong as on the Hong Kong Island side.

Tsim Sha Tsui (尖沙咀) pronounced "Tzeem Sah Jeui", the tip of the peninsula, is Kowloon's main tourist drag and has a mix of backpacker and high-end hotels. Further north, Mong Kok (旺角) has a huge choice of shops and markets in an area of less than a square kilometre.

Do

Afternoon tea in the lobby at the Peninsula Hotel is an elegant tradition that enables visitors to savour a little of the grandeur of Hong Kong's colonial past. It is one of the more affordable ways to experience the services of one of Hong Kong's most extravagant hotels. Afternoon tea is served between 2 PM and 7 PM, daily. The dress-code is smart casual.

You're never too old for tai chi on the Avenue of the Stars. Free lessons in English M W-F mornings from 8AM-9AM. A section of in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime — but be careful about taking pictures, as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.

Buy

If your budget doesn't quite stretch to the Tiffanys, Guccis and Shanghai Tangs of Hong Kong Island, head to Kowloon for more affordable shopping.

Eat

Kowloon is a great place to go for cheap and authentic Chinese, Indian, Nepalese and Thai food. It makes a welcome change from following the sophisticates who dine across the harbour in Soho. However, for those who seriously want to splurge, some of the swankiest restaurants are to be found Kowloon-side.