Essaouira

Understand

In addition to the new town, Essaouira offers a picturesque medina (old town) surrounded by seawalls and city walls, designed by a French architect in the 18th century, a harbor with fish market, and a long beach with numerous water sports opportunities. Once a hippie hangout, Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens spent some time here. Orson Welles filmed part of his Othello in town; west of the medina there's a square named in his honor.

Get around

The walled center of town, the Medina, is supposedly restricted to non-motorized vehicles, but this rule is widely ignored in the case of mopeds which are an increasing nuisance. However, compared to e.g. Marrakech the mopeds are much less of a hazard. Other than that, there are occasional donkey carts to dodge.

Taxi costs a flat fee of 8 dirham during day and 9 dirham after 20:00 (as of Jan 2024).

See

thumb|Essaouira Bastion Essaouira is a perfect example of a late 18th century fortified town, with the original canons still in place and where Orson Wells shot his Othello, "The Moor of Venice".

Do

The beach dominates the Essaouirans' leisure time. Although the strong wind and currents makes relaxed tanning and swimming a little difficult at times, it is perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing. With good winds for most days of the year, Essaouira is a watersports' paradise. The best spots are reported to be Essaouira Bay, Sidi Kaouki, Cape Sim and Mouley Bouzertoune. Equipment can be hired from various hire centres on the beach front. However, this is not the ideal place to learn watersports, particularly kitesurfing. There tends to be a bit of a catch 22 - either its calm and you can't go out because there's no wind or its windy and you can't go out because there is a huge shore break. In addition the water can smell of sewage. Camel and horse rides, quad-bikes, near the southern end of the main beach. A crowd of salesmen offering any type of rides can be found there throughout all day long.

Buy

thumb|Essaouira stores Essaouira's craftsmen are renowned for their woodwork and lacquerware. Intricately inlaid boxes, chessboards and curios can be found for good prices in the city's hundreds of shops; however, be aware that extensive deforestation is taking place in the area due to these woods not being replanted. Artwork of all kinds can be had here. thumb|Essaouira inlaid wood market

Eat

Although Essaouira is on the sea, seafood sold to tourists can be quite expensive. Fishermen sell their catch through the market hall and you can have it cooked at the small stands nearby. Prices are clearly marked by weight on the large pricing board at the end of the fish market stalls, but this seems to make little difference to the chances of being hustled. Sample price: 5 dirham for pack of fresh sardines (10 one of them) in fish market. Carefully evaluate how much you are being charged. A cheaper option is to buy Harira (a spicy soup) for 5-8 dirham or a sandwich (i.e. at Blue facade for 10-20 dirham, walking at the street from fish stands to the Medina).

One of the best options is to buy your seafood from the dock (haggling sometimes required) where they sell everything from eels to sharks, then take your fish to the central market side streets (follow the smoke!) where they will grill it for you for only 5 dirham a grill rack, they will also grill your vegetables or make Moroccan salad. Seeing locals carry frozen fish in their hands around the corner to these stalls is common.

There are many reasonable restaurants and cafés on the main streets and squares.

Drink

Some of the hotels have licensed bars, but it's hard to beat the terrace bar Taros for its view over the lively Place Moulay el Hassan and the harbour. Popular with locals and tourists, has decent music

An off-license, the only one in town, can be found outside of Bab Doukkala on the Boulevard al Massira, to the right. Just inside this gate is the "black market" for alcohol on religious holidays and at night. Just ask the boys selling loose cigarettes!

Sleep

If arriving by bus, locals may surround you as you exit offering discount riads or accommodation in their homes for as little as 150 dirham (can be negotiated down to 75 dirham), though you will not get a view of the ocean for this. There are many hotel options available so feel free to bypass them. You can always return to the bus station and they will still be there.

Stay safe

Avoid the dealers selling "hash brownies" near the square, they are usually fake

Hashish is widely smoked in Morocco, but do not be fooled into thinking it is legal even if you see Moroccans smoking during the day. Smoking or being high in public is seen as a vice, especially near holy places, in the morning, or if you are drawing attention to yourself; use your judgement.

Go next

Agadir — the modern resort city with its beaches. Marrakesh — city of hustle and stepping off point for the Sahara. El Jadida — A holiday destination for Moroccans that has similar history and sights.