لیون

Understand

thumb|right|Fourvière basilica from the river Saône, illuminated at night Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas, Lyon is the archetype of the heritage city, as recognised by UNESCO. Lyon is a vibrant metropolis which starts to make the most out of its unique architectural, cultural and gastronomic heritage, its dynamic demographics and economy and its strategic location between Northern and Southern Europe. It is more and more open to the world, with an increasing number of students and international events.

The city has about 470,000 inhabitants. However, the direct influence of the city extends well over its administrative borders. The figure which should be compared to the population of other major metropolises is the population of Greater Lyon (which includes 57 towns or communes): about 1,200,000. Lyon and its metropolitan area are rapidly growing and getting younger, because of their economic attractiveness.

See

thumb|A traboule is a passageway typical of Lyon Lyon may not have world-famous monuments such as the Eiffel tower or the Statue of Liberty, but it offers very diverse neighbourhoods which are interesting to walk around in and which hide architectural marvels. As time goes by, the city also becomes more and more welcoming for pedestrians and cyclists. So a good way to explore it may be to get lost somewhere and enjoy what comes up, and not to always follow the guide...

A good point for visitors is that most attractions will not cost you a cent: churches, traboules, parks, etc. For those intending to visit several museums (which are almost the only attractions you cannot see for free), the Lyon City Card may be of interest. Available from the Tourist office and some hotels, it costs €29 for one day, €39 for 2 days, €49 for 3 days, and €59 for 4 days (10% discount if you order online and pick-up). It includes unlimited rides on the public transport network, free or reduced entry fee to major museums and exhibitions and one guided tour per day per person (Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse, etc.). The price is still a bit high, so count before you buy to see if this is a good deal considering your plans.

Do not hesitate to buy a detailed map with a street index from a book shop or a newsagent; many places of interest or good restaurants are in small streets that you will not find on simplified maps, such as the ones you can get from the Tourist office.

Whatever the time of year (except…

Do

Cultural events are listed by the weekly magazine Le Petit Bulletin (free, available in cinemas, theatres, some bars, etc. and online).

Early booking is often necessary for the major institutions (Auditorium, opera house, Célestins and Croix-Rousse theatres). The big names sell out months in advance. Unlike London or New York, there is no place in Lyon where you can buy reduced-price tickets for same day shows. (There used to be one but it was very short-lived, possibly because it had too few seats to sell.)

Buy

thumb|Pralines roses thumb|The famed Praluline from Pralus

The signature souvenir from Lyon is the praline rose, a simple, sugary confection of candied almonds dyed shocking pink, sold by every bakery, chocolatier and souvenir shop in town. Less portable but more tasty are any of a number of pastries like tarte aux pralines that incorporate them.

The usual hours for downtown shopping are 10:00-19:00, Monday to Saturday. Some larger places close a bit later (19:30). Shops are closed on Sundays, except in December and in Vieux Lyon where Sunday is the busiest day of the week!

Eat

Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. As everywhere in France, the prices always include service, bread and tap water (ask for a carafe of water). Tipping is rare and only expected if you are particularly satisfied with the service. This is especially true in budget or mid-range restaurants, maybe less so in expensive places where it may be considered more appropriate; nothing is compulsory, though. Typical tips depend, of course, on the price of the menu and your level of satisfaction but they are generally not as high as in the US, for example. If you pay by credit card and wish to add a tip, you can tell the person in charge how much he/she should charge your card.

Meal times are generally 12:00–14:00 for lunch and 19:30–22:00 for dinner. Visitors from areas such as North America and Northern Europe might be surprised to find many places still closed at their usual dinner times. Places offering all-day service are to be found in tourist areas, and are unlikely to serve quality fresh food. Late-night service is quite rare in quality restaurants, but you can always get the usual fast-food or kebab.

thumb|right|250px|Snacking Lyon style: grattons (pork rinds) and saucisson (sausage)

The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called bouchons; the origin of the word is unclear (it literally means "cork"). They appeared at the end of the 19th century and flourished in the 1930s, when the economic crisis forced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opene…

Drink

Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards the Croix Rousse (M/B: Hôtel de Ville - Louis Pardel, 1th arr). In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places. These is also numerous bars in pedestrian streets of Le Vieux Lyon (the Old Lyon), all around St-Jean Cathedral (M: Vieux Lyon, 5th arr).

Sleep

It is generally not difficult to find a hotel room in Lyon, except for the Fête des Lumières and during some important professional trade shows like SIRHA (food, hotels and restaurants) and POLLUTEC (environment technology), when every last room in and around Lyon is booked. The dates of those events can be found on the exhibition centre's website. You can find hotels from the major chains, such as Sofitel, Hilton, Best Western, Accor, as well as many independent hotels.

Connect

Lyon has 5G from all French carriers. Wifi is widely available in public places, transport, cafes and so on.

There are 42 other post offices throughout all neighbourhoods of Lyon.

Most internet cafés and call shops are in the Guillotière neighbourhood (M: Guillotière) and behind Place des Terreaux (Rue Ste Catherine, Rue Romarin, M: Hôtel de Ville), because of the large population of immigrants living there.

Stay safe

Real security problems in the city centre are rare, but the usual advice applies.

Rue Ste Catherine, behind Place des Terreaux, is locally famous for its bars; on weekend nights there are a lot of drunk people on the street, who might be violent. The police keep a close watch but it is probably better to avoid the area if you are on your own, especially after 3AM when the bars are closed. Similar problems may be encountered in Vieux Lyon.

In populated places such as Rue de la République or outside Part-Dieu station, you may come across people advertising for charities; they can be recognised by their specific, coloured clothing. They will not ask you for money but rather give you information documents which encourage you to donate. Homeless people sell newspapers such as Macadam or Sans-abri which help them making some money without begging; they should have an ID card issued by the editors. But there are also people trying to con you and get money for some imaginary charity, sometimes by selling postcards or other items. Never give money directly to someone on the street who claims to be working for charity and does not have official documents, or if the documents look doubtful.

Some areas with a reputation for insecurity are way off the beaten track. But if you do decide to venture outside the city center, avoid wandering in Guillotière, Gerland, Vergoin, and La Duchère. Beyond, the city limits, stay clear of major suburbs like Villeurbanne and Vénissieux.

Go next

Thanks to its central geographical position and its historical role as a trading hub, Lyon is at the centre of a dense communications hub and thus is a great starting point to explore southeastern France. Most destinations around Lyon are served by regional trains of the TER Rhône-Alpes network. The extensive highway network in the region also allows for quick and efficient travel. Plenty of interesting cities, attractions and natural sites can be reached in less than 2 hours of travel! A more detailed listing can be found at the regional tourist office.