Baghdad

Get around

While the almost daily bombings and shootings have subsided, there is always a risk of getting caught in violence when travelling around the city. Staying vigilant is essential. Many high-end hotels provide their own transport, some even with armoured cars.

Baghdad is served by an extensive but chaotic bus network; maps and route information for the network are not available in English. Taxis are also plentiful and quite cheap to use. Walking is possible in parts of the city, especially in and around the old city. Cycling is not uncommon among locals, but there is next to no infrastructure to support it.

See

thumb|250px|Bookstalls along Mutanabbi Street, in the old quarter thumb|250px|National Museum of Iraq

A combination of heavy redevelopment during the second half of the 20th century, two decades of warfare and neglect has not been kind to Baghdad's architectural and cultural heritage. Generally, the eastern side contains the older districts while the western side is newer. The historic old quarter contains a myriad of alleys and small streets with buildings dating back to the Ottoman era or even older. Many of them are unfortunately in various stages of disrepair. The old quarter is also home to the heart and soul of Iraqi literacy and intellectual community, Mutanabbi Street. The street is lined with bookstores and outdoor book stalls as well as cafés to discuss matters of the day.

Do

Baghdad's cultural life is more vibrant than most visitors expect. Beyond the historical sites, the city offers riverside promenades, traditional markets worth exploring on foot, and day trips to some of Mesopotamia's most important archaeological sites.

Buy

Rugs and DVDs are available to buy. Inspect the quality of rugs carefully: Some are cheap Chinese-made rugs, and many are extremely overpriced. Also, many DVDs, especially those from street vendors, are bootlegs of varying quality.

Eat

Restaurants and cafés have been notorious targets for suicide bombers in the past, making eating out a quite dangerous activity.

Drink

thumb|Iraqi tea served at Shahbandar Café.

While Baghdad is undergoing something of a liberalization regarding both night life and alcohol, it is still not widely available and large parts of society frowns upon it. While some bars exists, particularly along Abu Nawas Street, a safe bet is always the bars of the top tier hotels. Many international organisations have their own bars as well, and some are open to outsiders.

Tea houses and cafés are however ubiquitous, and often open late into the night.

Sleep

Most organizations arrange their own accommodation. Sleeping in hotels in the proper city is always a risk due to bombings.

Stay safe

Travel to Baghdad is not recommended because of security concerns. Westerners are particular targets of kidnapping and assassination by militant and extremist groups. Baghdad airport is secure, so transiting there if necessary is safe. See the warning on the Iraq article.

The easiest way to stay safe in Baghdad is not to go there in the first place, except for official reasons. Most expats and business travellers to Iraq hire a security detail, which constantly monitors the security situation within Iraq and around Baghdad. Travel outside the International Zone is extremely dangerous. Roadside and car bombs are detonated every day in Baghdad. Many Iraqis are armed. Markets and popular gathering places are frequent targets of bombers. As a foreigner you are more likely to be targeted for kidnapping. Kidnappings are often financially motivated. These threats are not restricted to Americans or women.

Go next

Basra — second largest city in Iraq and its main port city Mosul — third largest city in Iraq Assur and Hatra — archaeological sites from the Cradle of Civilization Ctesiphon — archaeological sites just south of Baghdad