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thumb|300px|Mount Athos This 390-km² peninsula houses some 2,000 monks in 20 Eastern Orthodox monasteries, and 400 other men who work in the monasteries. An autonomous state under Greek sovereignty, entry into the area is strictly controlled and only male residents are allowed to live there and only male visitors are allowed.
Agio Oros (Holy Mountain) is a self-governed part of the Greek state, politically subject to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and to the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople as regards its religious aspect. The mountain is dedicated to the Holy Mother of God, and by an imperial document (typicon) the avaton was established and no female may set foot on the peninsula. Most of its inhabitants are Orthodox monks living in monasteries, sketae (small villages of cells), cells (individual homes), and hermitages. Those who are not members of the clergy include employees and workers, but also the numerous visitors to Agio Oros, who come for the purposes of meditation, prayer and study.
Of the 20 monasteries, one is Russian, one is Bulgarian, one is Serbian and the rest are Greek. There are also Romanian and Bulgarian sketae. Foreign monasteries and sketae are supported by their respective countries.
These monasteries possess holy relics, icons, frescoes and mosaics of great value. Although many have been lost in fires or stolen during raids, a vast array of historical texts, rare documents and manuscripts - all historical heirlooms - are kept in their lib…
The monasteries on Mount Athos can be reached only by ferry, either from Ouranoupoli (for west coast monasteries) or from Ierissos for those on the east coast. Many visitors arrive at the port of Dafni (Daphne), from where they continue by bus to the "capital" Karyes. Smaller boats, people carriers and taxis ferry pilgrims from monastery to monastery. The Agia Anna (regular speed) and Mikra Agia Anna (speedboat) ferries also carry passengers from Dafni to Kafsokalyvia (location of the Holy Trinity Skete) at the southern tip of the Athos peninsula. For boat schedules, check here.
The Mikra Agia Anna speedboat arrives slightly ahead of the Agia Anna regular ferry at destinations along the southern part of the Athos peninsula, even though the latter starts 1.5 hours earlier. However, reservations, which can be made up to 7 days in advance, are necessary for the speedboat. No reservations are necessary for the regular ferry. Before boarding, be sure to purchase your ticket at the main ticket office near the Pilgrims' Bureau, and also have your diamonitirion to show to the ferry officer.
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Karyes (Greek: Καρυές) is a settlement in Mount Athos of the Athonite monastic community. The 2021 Greek census reported a population of 135 inhabitants. It is the largest settlement in Mount Athos.
The major church at Karyes is the Protaton, which is the church of the Protos, or president of the monastic community. The famed Axion Estin icon is kept at the Protaton. Each of the twenty monasteries of Mount Athos also has a konaki, or representative's residence, at Karyes.
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There are also sightseeing boats that do tours around the peninsula without landing; these require no permits, and are the only option for women who want to get a glimpse of Mount Athos.
On Mount Athos itself, the most convenient (and most popular) way of travel is the taxi-minibuses. They operate on a schedule, and they connect Dafni, Karyes, and most of the monasteries, using narrow roads tha…
thumb|400px|Map of the Mount Athos Peninsula thumb|300px|Bulgarian monastery of Saint George the Zograf (Zographou) The capital, Karyes: Highlights include the old church of Protaton, which has exceptional murals and a famous icon of the Virgin Mary, called Axion Estin, which is the household icon of the patron saint of the Holy Mountain. The monasteries, which in Mount Athos amount to twenty: Great Lavra (Μεγίστη Λαύρα Megísti Lávra): the oldest monastery in the Holy Mountain. Vatopédi (Βατοπέδι): the second oldest monastery. Vatopedi takes online reservations for overnight stays. Iviron (Ιβήρων): an ancient Georgian monastery, now populated by Greek monks. Chilandariou (Χιλανδαρίου, or Хиландар Hilandar in Serbian): a Serbian monastery, populated by Serbian monks. Dionysiou (Διονυσίου) Koutloumousiou (Κουτλουμούσι): popular with pilgrims due to its location within Karyes. Pantokratoros (Παντοκράτορος): known for their efforts to make monastic life accessible to new pilgrims. Xiropotamou (Ξηροποτάμου): known for their strict discipline and high-quality hospitality for pilgrims. Zographou (Ζωγράφου, Зограф Zograf in Bulgarian): a Bulgarian monastery, populated by Bulgarian monks. Dochiariou (Δοχειάριου) Karakalou (Καρακάλλου) Philotheou (Φιλοθέου) Simonos Petra (Σίμωνος Πέτρα or Σιμωνόπετρα): a Greek monastery, very cosmopolitan in its composition, including monks from many places over the world. Agiou Pavlou (Αγίου Παύλου) Stavronikita (Σταυρονικήτα) Xenophontos (Ξενοφώντος…
"Souvenirs" are mostly of religious nature. Shops are available at Dafni, Karyes and some monasteries. The following is an incomplete list of items you may buy to take with you:
Icons (all prices and sizes) Prayer ropes (known as komboskini in Greek or chotki in Russian) Books about lives of the Saints Frankincense CDs or cassettes of monastic choirs (the most renowned from the Holy Mountain being the one from Simonos Petras) Walking sticks (engraved with Mount Athos emblem) Wine produced at Athos' vineyards
If you happen to buy prayer ropes or icons, don't miss the opportunity of having them blessed with a monastery's holy relics!
Provided you stay at the monasteries, or you are just passing by at the right time, you will eat meals and dinners with the monks in the monastery's refectory (trapeza). The food is normally extremely good, usually vegetarian but with cheese and bread. Mostly it will be bread, olives and vegetables, although occasionally fish or cheese may be served.
For drink, on fasting days (Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays) only water will be served. On non-fasting days Greek wine and/or Greek retsina will be available. If you happen to be on the monastery's saint feast day, a piece of sweet cake will surely be available as a dessert.
In order to eat at the monasteries, you must be attentive to eating schedules. These normally take place after their services, that is, after Vespers in the afternoon (at around 18:00) or after Divine Liturgy in the morning (at around 07:00). Still, these times are not exact, so you should ask at each monastery for the timetable, and if you arrive after eating times, you may ask the archontaris (guestmaster) for food.
It is a good idea to take additional supplies with you. They can be bought at Dafni or Karyes, but do not rely on having great variety available. It is very strongly recommended to stock up on food (preferably energy bars and bread) at Ouranoupoli, since Dafni and Karyes are the only settlements at Mount Athos that sell very limited selections of food. The ferries also have limited selections of coffee, juice, and bread.
You will surely enjo…
Some of the larger monasteries sell wine and spirits. Beer, wine and spirits can also be purchased in Karyes or Dafni.
However, even though you may be able to purchase alcohol, it is considered inappropriate to drink in front of the monks. Practise moderation!
At the monasteries and sketes, you may be served water, grape juice, or sometimes strong alcoholic spirits (ouzo or tsipouro).
For drinking water, be sure to bring a refillable water bottle (1-2 litres) to fill with tap water, which is safe to drink at the monasteries. You may also occasionally be able to drink spring water at fountains along certain footpaths.
The only places to sleep in Mount Athos are the monasteries and sketae, which offer spartan dormitory-style accommodation in guesthouses (archontariki). Most, but not all, require reservations in advance. For a directory of the phone and fax numbers of the monasteries and sketae, check here and also the Friends of Mount Athos website.
Check in before 16:00 or risk being shut out! Simple meals are included at specific times. Showers and restrooms are shared by pilgrims. Most monasteries have hot water, but some of the more remote sketes may only offer cold showers. There have also been reports of bedbugs at a few of the monastery hostels.
No payment is expected for stays of one night, but donations are usually accepted, especially if you request and receive permission to stay longer.
Mount Athos is where monks go to escape the modern world, and as you're visiting as a guest, you have to respect their rules and behave as they expect you to. In general terms, monks expect pilgrims to visit them, and not tourists. When possible, try to keep a pious attitude, even if you are not Orthodox, and be sensitive that some monks may not want to discuss topics that seem too "worldly" for their concerns. The monks consider themselves to be living in a place without time, so when inquiring about chronological dates (e.g. the foundation date of the monastery) do so in a tactful way which avoids making you look touristy.
Conventions of behaviour vary somewhat from monastery to monastery, so when in doubt, ask the master of the guesthouse, the archontaris. In general:
Do not hold your hands behind your back as if on a sight-seeing tour, hold them in front of you in a sign of reverence. Avoid engaging in activities which may be disrupting for the monks, like bathing in the sea or listening to loud music. Photography of monasteries is allowed, but photography of monks or inside churches is generally prohibited without explicit permission. In some monasteries (e.g. Agiou Panteleimonos) photography is banned in the whole monastery territory. On feast days, the presence of huge crowds result in many people taking photographs even inside the church, and in these cases the ban is not enforced. However, avoid taking photographs with flash or in a manner which may be annoying to …
Because Athos is a monastic community with strict entry controls, violent crime is largely unheard of. Occasionally pilgrims can get rowdy due to the free-flowing alcohol at some establishments, but they do not mean harm and the right thing to do in that case is to politely distance yourself and inform the guestmaster.
Theft is also rare for the same reason of religious piety and access control. It is common to see neatly lined-up luggage on benches in public places, for example at the Karyes bus terminus and outside small shops and churches, where the owners of the luggage have put down their luggage temporarily in order to go on a short walk. Be sure to collect all your luggage when you return though: due to the sparse availability of transport, if you forget your luggage, it will be very difficult to retrieve it.
Important phone numbers for police stations, ports, and post offices can be found here.
When walking around Mount Athos, follow the usual safety tips and precautions for hiking. Some footpaths, especially in steep, rocky part of the southern peninsula, can be very steep and rocky with no guardrails. Bring enough food and water to last for the entire day when going on long-distance treks. It is very strongly recommended to stock up on food (preferably energy bars) at Ouranoupoli, since Dafni and Karyes are the only settlements at Mount Athos that sell very limited selections of food. The ferries also have limited selections of coffee, juice, and bread.
Many min…
The closest destinations to Mount Athos are the ones the ferries depart from: Ouranoupoli and Ierissos. The closest big city — and well worth a visit — is Thessaloniki.
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