马扎里沙里夫

Understand

With a population of more than 485,000 (2020), Mazar-e Sharif is the 4th largest city in Afghanistan. It was founded in the 12th century after a local mullah dreamt of the secret site where Ali bin Talib, the Prophet's cousin and the fourth caliph of Islam, had been buried (outside of Afghanistan most Muslims believe that Ali is buried in Najaf, Iraq). A shrine, which was rebuilt as the Blue Mosque, was constructed on the site and the city of Mazar grew around it.

Historically this region was known as Bactria, its capital was Balkh and Mazar was a smaller town nearby. However Balkh was abandoned due to disease in the mid-19th century and Mazar assumed the role of capital of the region, a position it has maintained ever since. Being at a crossroads of trade, the Mazar region is more ethnically diverse than other areas of Afghanistan, and after Kabul it is considered the most open and liberal of all Afghan cities.

Get around

Taxis are plentiful and should cost 30 Afg or less around town. Negotiate a price before setting off.

See

thumb|300px|The Shrine of Hazrat Ali.

In the way of sights Mazar has little to offer the visitor other than the Blue Mosque - although some of the modern monuments built atop traffic circles are worth a photo. Mazar is surrounded by beautiful Mountains on two sides and is home to some Ancient Greek relics.

Do

The mosque is open for daily prayers.

Buy

thumb|Street scene

Hand-woven carpets are common in the bazaar, both Turkoman rugs and Afghan rugs that are typically cheaper and coarser.

Eat

Between the Farhat Hotel and the Blue Mosque there are food stalls on both sides of the road. Bagels with green vegetables, tomato and french fries are especially good. Fruit shakes, soft drinks and tea are also available. Stalls close around sun set.

Drink

Freshly made fruit slushies. Banana shakes with almonds and dates are delicious, and the persimmon version looks equally alluring. Several stands are set up near the Aamo Hotel, as well as other spots around the shrine.