Also known as Northern Nicosia, N. Nicosia
capital of Northern Cyprus
North Nicosia is the capital city of Northern Cyprus, a territory in the eastern Mediterranean that declared independence in 1983 but is recognized as a sovereign state by only Turkey. The city is significant because it sits on the divided island of Cyprus, where it serves as the political and administrative center of Northern Cyprus, and its status reflects the ongoing partition of the island between the Greek Cypriot south and Turkish Cypriot north.
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This ancient city was Leucotheon (Λευκοθέον) or similar names meaning "white deity" until the 13th century, when the "L" morphed into "N". It was the capital of the island from the 10th century, ringed by walls and a moat in the 16th to try to repel the Ottomans, and became capital of the Republic of Cyprus on independence in 1960. But inter-community tensions and violence persisted, leading to the Turkish invasion of 1974, and the eventual ceasefire line split Nicosia through the middle. And so it remains, a strange example of a divided city, in an era when Berlin, Jerusalem and Sarajevo have re-combined, and the Greek-Turkish partition of Cyprus is a "frozen conflict" blighting the entire island. The border however is straightforward to cross for individuals — vehicles, goods and pets are another matter — so many tourists in the south get their first taste of life in Northern Cyprus by strolling across at Ledra Street.
Most sights and amenities are within the sturdy walls of the Old City. Restaurants and shops also extend northwest along Dereboyu Street, also known as Mehmet Akif Cd.
The Old City of northern Nicosia is easy to explore on foot.
Kuzey Kibris Taxi are on +90 539 103 3131.
thumb | 300px | Selimiye Mosque Bedesten on the south flank of the mosque was the basilica of St Nicholas, dating back to the 6th century but rebuilt in the 12th and 13th centuries. The Ottomans converted it into a covered market and it's now a cultural centre. Eaved House (Saçaklı Ev) is on and Kütüphane Sk just east of Selimiye Mosque. It's a fine old mansion, nominally a museum, but you're unlikely to find it open. Kumarcılar Han is a smaller caravanserai just north of Büyük Han. It was built late 17th century and was a ruin by the 21st, but is now restored as a craft market. Haydarpaşa Mosque is on Kirlizade Sk, 50 m south of the Lusignan House. It was built in Gothic style in the late 14th century as St Catherine's Church and converted to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest. It's only intermittently in use as a mosque and has also been an art gallery. or Atatürk Square is the heart of the walled city. Most of its historic buildings have been lost, to be replaced with humdrum modern low-rise. So it's not scenic, but the Venetian Column was erected in 1550 (probably pilfered from the ancient Temple of Zeus at Salamis), and there's an Ottoman-era fountain, no longer connected. thumb | 300px | Kyrenia Gate Holy Cross Catholic Church is just south of the Armenian Church on Ali H Mulla Sk, but from here you only get to admire its walls. The entrance and interior are in Nicosia South, where they call it Καθολικός Ναός του Τιμίου Σταυρού. Samanbahçe is a photogenic neighb…
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Theatre: Nicosia Municipal Theatre (Lefkoşa Belediye Tiyatrosu) is 2 km north of Old Town on Şehit Osman M Benli Sk. It's a bit cramped so big events are staged further out on Near East University campus. Büyük Hamam Turkish baths on Irfan Bey Sk are 500 years old, but closed for renovation in 2024. Football: 16 teams play soccer in K-Pet Super League, the top tier in Northern Cyprus, and many are based in Nicosia, so you should find a game any weekend September to April. There isn't a national team as TRNC isn't recognised by FIFA. Casinos are often sleazy cover for gabareler ("cabaret"), code-word for brothels. Gönyeli Festival is a music event in September by Concorde Tower.
Supermarkets: lots of little stores in Old Town, mostly open daily 07:30-21:30. Town Market (Bandabulia) is on Kuyumcular Sk, 100 m south of Selimiye Mosque and open M-Sa 08:30-17:30.
thumb | 300px | An alley in Samanbahçe Traditional specialties include Molohiya, the local name for Mulukhiyah, a gloochy broth of jute leaves in tomato and garlic, often with lamb or chicken, and Yalancı dolma, vine leaves stuffed with rice, onions and tomatoes. Yalancı means "fake" as there's no meat. Plus the usual East Med dishes such as shish kebab (skewered lamb), döner kebab (carved from a vertical rotisserie), köfte (meatballs) and musakka (a bake of layered mince, potato and aubergine). Leave room for dessert.
Most cafes serve alcohol. Brewery: Double O Brewing makes a range of craft ales at Müftü Raci Efendi Sk 18, near Arab Ahmet Mosque. The taproom is open Su-F 06:00-00:30, Sa 16:00-01:00.
thumb | 300px | Rauf Denktaş rests in Republic Park Nicosia has limited accommodation for a capital city, as it's within a short travel time from the resort hotel strip on the Kyrenia coast. Pansiyons are clustered in Old Town. Several places calling themselves "hotels" are just tacky casinos and brothels.
As of March 2024, Nicosia and its approach roads have 4G from KKTC Turkcell and KKTC Telsim. 5G has not rolled out in Northern Cyprus.
Coverage by Cyprus Republic carriers extends for a kilometre or two into Old Town, with 5G from Cyta Vodafone and Epic, and 4G from PrimeTel.
Everywhere in TRNC is within an hour or so's drive of Nicosia. The historic port of Kyrenia is 20 minutes by car, with frequent buses. St Hilarion Castle is an interesting detour along the way. Famagusta has a walled old city like Nicosia, but is rather run down. The west edge of TRNC around Morphou and Dillirga is a 90-minute drive or dolmuş. Nicosia South is an easy day trip providing you have eligibility to enter the EU without a visa; other passport holders may not enter from TRNC.
Travel guide from Wikivoyage (CC BY-SA 4.0)
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