Turkmenistan

Understand

thumb|Statue of former President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov. North Korea may get all the press, but even the Kim Family's cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal totalitarian state set up by Turkmenistan's former president, Saparmurat Niyazov.

Turkmenistan is known for its extravagant prices, over-the-top bureaucracy, and hard-to-get visas. Tourism is not a priority for the government, and you are likely to be closely observed by the authorities curious as to what you're doing in the country.

Get in

has one of the most restrictive visa policies in the world. In practice, the only visa available for independent travelers is the transit visa, usually granted for 3 to 7 days. Tourist visas are only possible by joining a guided tour lasting the entire duration of your time in the country. Journalists are not allowed to visit Turkmenistan on a tourist visa, and need to obtain special permission in order to visit.

Visa-free transit through Ashgabat is possible, but you'll be stuck at the transit area of the airport.

Get around

thumbnail|Public transport in Turkmenistan

See

thumb|280px|Nisa Fortress

Ancient cities, once major centers of trade and culture: Konye Urgench Merv Nissa Natural features: Karakum Desert Yangykala Canyon

Do

Horse trekking with Akhal Teke horses: Orexca offers a 12 day Turkem Akhalteke Horse Ride Wonders of the Karakum Desert with transfer from Ashgabar to Geokdepe Stud Farm, ride through the North East of the Karakum Desert to Tummekli, to the nomadic villages of Chyria, Gurrukly, Hakysh Gongurajy, Orazsahet and to the Geokdepe Reservoir. Hiking in the Köýtendag Nature Reserve (travel permit required) or in the mountains around Nokhur.

Eat

thumb|280px|Bread baking in Bai Bazaar, [[Dashoguz ]]

Expect distinctly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan, plov and more central Asian-type fare can be found in markets. If you can find it, try sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, sometimes prepared in a tempura style.

Meals often start with a soup, as chorba, a meat and vegetable soup. Another national dish is plov, rice with mutton, onions, carrots, spices, raisins, peas or quinces. Manty are steamed dumplings filled with lamb. Ku'urma is lamb, cooked in its own fat. Ichlekli is a meat and onion pie and gutap is a pie filled with meat, potatoes, spinach and pumpkin.

Drink

Look out for a range of Turkmenbashi labeled vodka, which can be washed down with the range of Russian Baltika brand beer. It can be harder to find local beers in outlets catering to foreigners, but Berk is well worth asking for; Zip, on the other hand, is awful.

Tea is excellent and readily available.

Best to err on the side of caution, and stick with bottled water. As in Russia, you may want to specify byehz gah-zah (literally, 'without gas' or 'still; plain') if you do not like fizzy water. Borjomi mineral water from Georgia is available in Ashgabat's shops.

Local people prefer to drink gok chai (green tea), often with dried fruits or herbs, as mint.

Sleep

Finding affordable accommodation in Turkmenistan can be challenging; you can expect to pay between US$100-200 a night for a single room in a comfortable hotel.

There are also opportunities for you to stay in a Turkmen yurt, whose design differs noticeably from their Kazakh, Kyrgyz and Mongolian counterparts; enquire with your tour company.

Stay safe

Turkmenistan is a very safe country, largely because the government severely punishes crime. Turkmenistan is an authoritarian dictatorship and has one of the worst human rights records in the world. You need to watch what you say and do, always. As the saying goes, "If you have nothing good to say, don't say anything at all."

Stay healthy

thumbnail|Artificial river Medical supplies do not correspond to American or European standards. Bring the medicines you need for your personal use with you, as they will be unavailable outside of Ashgabat. A travel insurance covering hospital care and an emergency flight to your home country is strictly recommended.

Vaccinations against diphtheria, tetanus, polio, hepatitis A and B are recommended. A vaccination against typhus is also recommended in case you stay in poor hygienic conditions, and a course of 3 vaccinations against rabies is recommended for long term stays and frequent contact with animals or if you are not able to get to a clinic to be treated within 18 hours of being bitten.

Avoid drinking tap water. Tap water in Turkmenistan is known to contain traces of toxic metals, and this can cause long-term health problems.

Fruits and vegetables should be peeled before consumption. Avoid dairy products as they are not pasteurized.